Many vintage jewelry collectors refer to guilloché (pronounced gee-oh-shay and commonly anglicized as gee-oshe) as a type of enameling. The term actually refers to the process of engine turning which creates the design which shows as through the enamel in the piece. Remember the old spirograph machines you may have used as a child? This will give you a feeling of the look of a guilloché piece.

Guilloché is a French word which literally means "engine turning." When talked about in the manufacture of jewelry, this technique entails actually carving a design into a base metal, and then filling the indentions in the design with different colors and opacities of enamel. Often, translucent fused glass is applied over an engraved metal surface and the resulting product has a spirograph type of pattern which you can see under the enamel. A close relation to guilloché is basse-taille designs which were popular with mid 20th century Scandinavian silversmiths. Many also used the process of guilloché.

The early Greeks used a primitive form of the process in their temples when ornaments, which were either painted or carved, were used as decorative bands on vases and other areas in their temples. These patterns consisted of a series of circles - single, double or triple which wound around and interlaced with each other as decorative effects. Early examples dated to almost 2300 B.C. Most of these have disappeared, but traces are still to be found in some temples. The technique was used throughout Europe, particularly in Italy during the Renaissance period. It was also occasionally used in France and England during that time.

Engine turning, or guilloché, is created when a rose engine or decoration lathe cuts grooves in geometric patterns into metal. It was used to decorate the cases of pocket watches and other small items, and also used to engrave printing plates for bonds, stock certificates and even paper money. The pattern is engraved, so the reflection of light is enhanced. As the object moves from side to side, its brilliance can be seen. After enameling, decorative accents such as hand-painted roses will often be added to an item.

The best Known Artist of Guilloché is Fabergé, although he was not the first person using the technique. His pieces were shown in Paris in 1900 and this brought a new interest to the technique of guilloché. The famous Fabergé eggs often use the technique in their designs. The actual process of engine turning was developed in the 18th century but died out around WW1. It is a delicate technique which requires very sophisticated equipment and a high skill level.

Throughout the 20th century and before, enamel and guilloche roses were very popular in vintage jewelry designs. They had a huge burst of popularity during the 1940s and 1950s. Coro, Elgin, ESPO and Vargas were companies which produced these designs in large numbers. Guilloché jewelry remains popular and is highly collectible today.

The machines which are used to create Guilloché designs are no longer produced, so the technique itself will not continue. However, the collecting of these lovely and romantic vintage jewelry items will be with us in times to come. Today, true Guilloché is only found in luxury watches and only a very few companies still practice the art. In addition to vintage jewelry items, compacts, dresser sets, charms and pocket watches are made with the process. Hopefully, they will find their way to the hands of collectors, so that these miniature works of art will be with us for some time to come.

Carol Speake

My Ruby Lane Store:
http://www.rubylane.com/shops/thefinishingtouchvintagejewelry