Celluloid is a highly flammable early vintage plastic which contains camphor. It is very lightweight and was later discontinued in favor of heavier more durable forms of plastic. Celluloid was one of the first plastics to be widely used in making jewelry.

The material is derived from a natural plant fiber. It was originally developed in the 1850s in England by John Wesley Hyatt who commercialized the use of celluloid. Hyatt had experimented with cellulose nitrate, intending to use it to manufacture billiard balls. He wanted an alternative to the ivory which had, up until that time, been the material used. His combination of cellulose nitrate and camphor resulted in the material we now know as celloid.

Vintage jewelry using celluloid dates to about 1900 and is commonly known as the first thermoplastic material used in jewelry. It was very popular during the Art Deco period - 1920-1935. Celluloid was used for a variety of objects, including hair accessories, and it was often set with rhinestones or other stones. Dress clips, such as the one shown here, were often made of celluloid during this period.

Celluloid jewelry pieces often have a highly carved design with flowers and leaves as common motifs. It was regularly used in brooches and dress clips during the early 20th century. To test your piece of jewelry for celluloid content. place it under hot water for a few seconds. If it smells like camphor or old vinegar, it is likely to be celluloid, especially if the other characteristics of the material are met.

Celluloid looks similar to some other vintage plastics, but it differs in many ways. It tends to be thinner and lighter than bakelite. It is also much more brittle and can crack when exposed to high heat temperatures - sometimes even being flammable. Even though it can be brittle, it can still be twisted or bent into shape.

Celluloid jewelry needs a bit of special care. It should be stored carefully, since it tends to be brittle and sensitive to extremes in heat and cold. It is also flammable, so the hot pin test (which I rarely recommend for testing in any case) is particularly a no no with celluloid. It can also be damaged by excessive moisture. Don't store in a dry environment, if possible. The dryness over long periods can make the celluloid's finish get dull and might even crack the piece.

If you are a collector of celluloid jewelry, one very useful reference book on the subject is called Celluloid Collectors Reference and Value Guide by Keith Lauer and Julie Robinson. The book has many full color photographs and a guide to prices and also attempts to produce an historically accurate account of all the early American plastics.

Carol Speake

My Ruby Lane Store:
http://www.rubylane.com/shops/thefinishingtouchvintagejewelry